Route of the Week: Cosmic Wall
Route Type: Alpine Rock
Gear: 0.3 – 3.5”, 0.3 -.75” Offsets are helpful. 70m rope preferred
Formation: Mt Hubris (The Ogre), Castle Crags Wilderness
A must do for any climber in the State of Jefferson (or California for that matter). First put up by Sir Chris Bonington, of Everest Fame, in 1979. This pinnacle is sometimes called the Ogre because the rock formation can resemble a face wearing a pointed hat.
There are a couple of good trailheads for Cosmic Wall. The most often used is Castle Dome Trail starting from the Vista Point Parking Area at Castle Crags State Park 14 miles south of the town of Mt. Shasta.
Take the Castle Dome Trail for about a 1.5-hour approach of the South Face of Castle Dome. A faint climbers trail breaks off to the West-Southwest and Is intermittently broken by short sections of bushwhacking. Start in an obvious alcove at the base of a black dike.
P1: (165ft) A broken dihedral climbs up to a short slab. Belay from a ledge with a pine tree on the left side of the black dike.
P2: (135ft) Head up the black dike on some lower angle climbing then step right onto a comfortable belay ledge with two bolts. Enjoy the view!
P3: (200ft) The pitch starts with a cruxy 5.6 slab move off the anchors and back up the dike. Follow the dike past another dihedral to a good belay ledge and a small pine tree.
P4: (110ft) Climb a series of flakes to the saddle leading up to the summit ridge
P5: (90ft) A short and easy but very exposed ridgeline brings you to a spectacular summit with great views of the range as well as Mt. Shasta.
Mt Shasta Area Climbing by Grover Shipman