Route of the Week: Travelers Buttress
Route Type: Traditional
Formation: Lover’s Leap
One of Steck and Roper’s Fifty Classic Climbs of North America and for good reason. This route positioned squarely in the middle of the Main Wall of Lover’s Leap in the beautiful Tahoe Region of California. This route is stout for its grade and is well-known for its two very physical cruxes. With that in mind, it is also wonderfully diverse. From slab, to overhangs, to off-width, splitter hand cracks and flakes this route has it all.
40 miles east of Placerville California on Hwy 50. The Traveler’s Buttress can be found on the center of the Main Wall at Lover’s Leap. From the main trail hike up the talus field on the left side of the Lower Buttress to the first ledge (Tombstone Ledge). You can skip the first pitch and continue up to the main ledge.
P1: (135ft) Starting from the Tombstone Ledge the route climbs a series of 5.7 cracks and flakes up the center of the buttress. Near the top of the pitch, the crack system widens out to an awkward flaring 5.9 crack.
P2: (120ft) From the main ledge head up a very physical 5.9 off-width about 35ft to parallel cracks. Finish on great hand just right of the first roof on two bolts.
P3: (145ft) Perhaps the most spectacular pitch on the route. Climb up a fractured ramp to the second roof. Step out on a very airy and engaging 5.8 arete and head up remembering to manage rope drag.
P4: (185ft) 4th to low 5th class dike hiking with little protection but fun indeed.
South Lake Tahoe Climbing, McNamara
Falcon Guides: Climbing Lake Tahoe, Mike Carville